LG C7 OLED TV Calibration Settings

For additional settings information, please consult the Common Problems and How to Calibrate pages.

We used the following calibration settings to review the LG 55" C7 (OLED55C7P), and these should also be good for the 65" variant (OLED65C7P). These work well with everything except for gaming which requires a few extra tweaks, which are listed below.

General settings

The first thing we did was to turn off the 'Energy Saving' since we did not want to screen brightness to change automatically depending on the room lighting.

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In the 'Aspect Ratio Settings' tab, we selected the '16:9' 'Aspect Ratio' with the 'Just Scan' option set to 'On' so that our HDMI input would be automatically matched to the screen size without needing to change the 'overscan' setting from the source output setting.

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We selected the 'IFS Expert (Dark Room)' picture mode since it was the picture mode that was the closest to our calibration goal.

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 In the 'Picture Mode Settings' page, we then increased the 'Contrast' to 95  since it helped the calibration and also gave us a bit more contrast without any clipping of the bright white. We left 'Brightness' to 50, its default value, and set the 'H Sharpness' to 0 and 'V Sharpness' to 0,  because we did not want to add any sharpening. 'Color' was left to 50 and 'Tint' to 0, both their default values since it was the most accurate setting for both.

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In the 'Expert Controls' settings page, we set 'Dynamic contrast' and 'Super Resolution' to 'Off' since we did not want to add any image processing. We set the 'Color Gamut' to 'Auto' since when set to 'Auto' , the TV will change the 'Color Gamut' automatically to match the source. 'Edge Enhancer' was left to 'On' as this setting is not active when set to on (this can be a bit counterintuitive). 'Color Filter' was left to 'Off' since we did not need this function (this is only useful if you need to do a calibration with specific pattern and without a color measuring tools). We set the 'Gamma'  to 2.2 as it helped to reach our calibration goal and because it is the standard for most TV shows and movies. This can be changed though, especially if you are losing details in dark scene (if you find that the blacks are crushed), you can use a lower 'Gamma' setting like 1.9.

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In the 'White Balance' settings, we selected the 'Warm2' from the 'Color Temperature' settings since it was the 'Color Temperature' the closest to our calibration goal.

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In the 'Picture Options' menu, we turned off 'Noise Reduction' and 'MPEG Noise Reduction', but you can turn on these features if you are watching older low-resolution content, as it may help reduce visual noise and compression artifacts. We set the 'Black Level' to 'Low' to match our source 'Output Dynamic Range'. If you are not sure if you have the good setting, when set wrong, blacks will look grayish instead of really deep blacks. We left turned off the 'Motion Eye Care' since we did not want the TV to change the brightness of the TV automatically depending on the displayed scene. The 'Real Cinema' was left to 'On', as this will only affect the was 24p movies will be displayed and should not affect negatively any other content (60p/60i). 'TruMotion' setting was left off, since we did not want to add any motion interpolation. Both those last settings relate to the 24p playback and you can read here to know more about those options,

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Luminance Settings

Dark Room

For calibration purposes, we adjusted 'OLED LIGHT' to 16 to reach our desired luminance of 100 cd/m² and this setting should be good for a dark home theater room or any viewing situation with a low light level. If this setting is still too bright for you, then you can still lower it further to better suit your need. 

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Average Room

For a room with an average lighting, adjusted 'OLED LIGHT' to 47 to reach a luminance of 200 cd/m². This setting should be good for any room with an average light situation, like an office. You can always adjust it to better suit your specific room.

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Bright Room

For our bright room setting, we adjuster the 'OLED LIGHT' to 100 (maximum) to get the maximum luminance available,  and this setting should be good for any well-lit rooms with the direct sunlight of light from a very bright lamp. Again here it is good to note that this does not affect the colors, only the luminance of the display. 

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It is good to note that this changing the 'OLED LIGHT' settings does not affect the color or the picture quality, only the luminance of the display. 

HDR settings

First thing to do is to turn on 'HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color' for the HDMI port where you intend to connect your HDR UHD Blu-ray players (or video games console if you are using it as a Blu-ray player), as some players may not detect that the TV can support the full HDMI bandwidth necessary for HDR content.

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When in HDR, some settings might be unavailable (gray out) in the menu and this is normal. We are going to list for each HDR10 and Dolby Vision the best setting that we recommend.


When the TV detects HDR10 content, it will give you 6 'HDR Picture Mode' options. For movies, the 'Cinema Home' picture mode  is the best option available since it will give you more control of the settings, similar to what you have access with 'IFS Expert (Dark Room)' with SDR content. The 'OLED Light' Setting in HDR10 mode is set to maximum automatically. This is recommended for HDR10 content, as it will permit the reproduction of the brightest highlights possible under HDR to create the 'Pop' normally seen with HDR content. When in 'Cinema Home' picture mode, the color temperature setting is a bit different, and we found that temperature setting of 'W30' was the most accurate setting, also, the 'Color' setting of 60 is accurate and don't need to be changed.

Active HDR

The 2017 LG OLED TVs now support HDR with 'Active HDR', which is similar to HDR10+ or HDR10 with dynamic metadata. This feature analyses the content frame by frame in real time to adjust the HDR tone mapping curve. This has the advantage of displaying each scene with an optimized HDR effect, as opposed to the HDR with a static metadata, where all the movie was using the same tone mapping curve, resulting in some scene sometimes being too dark or too bright or simply not exposed correctly to have the best possible HDR effect.

To activate this feature on the C7, you need to go in the 'Expert control' tab. In the 'Expert Control' tab, you will need to set the 'Dynamic Contrast' to 'Low'. The 'Low' setting turn on the 'Active HDR without the 'Contrast Enhancement'. We usually don't like to add any unnecessary image processing and this is why we are proposing to use the 'Low' setting here, as the 'Contrast Enhancement' would modify the content in a way that was not intended by the content creator. If you want to test this extra feature, then the 'Medium' setting set the 'Contrast Enhancement' to Low and the 'High' to 'High'.

Note that 'Active HDR' does not work when the TV is in 'Game' 'HDR Picture Mode' or in 'PC' Mode, so we recommend setting the 'Dynamic Contrast' 'Off' under those conditions.

Dolby Vision 

When the TV detects Dolby Vision HDR content, it will also give you 5 'HDR Picture Mode' options. For movies, the 'Cinema Home' picture mode is the best option available since it will give you more control of the settings, again similar to what you have access with 'IFS Expert (Dark Room)' with SDR content and similarly to the HDR10 setting, here the 'Cinema home' is also brighter than the other mode. When in Dolby Vision HDR, the recommended 'OLED LIGHTS' setting is 50. Raising 'OLED LIGHTS' setting higher than 50 will raise the 'Gamma', so this can help if you notice black crush (loss of detail in the black regions of the screen).

When in Dolby Vision HDR, since Dolby Vision HDR already incorporate a dynamic metadata, there is no need for an 'Active HDR feature, and thus the 'Dynamic Contrast' behave the same way it does in SDR.

Gaming settings

SDR Gaming

To get the best input lag possible when gaming, you need to set the 'Picture Mode' to 'Game'. Once the 'Game' picture mode is selected, some options won't be available in the setting pages since the 'Game' picture mode disables most of the image processing to give better input lag. Under game mode, the color temperature setting is now a slider giving you a different control from colder to warmer. The gamma selection is also a bit different, giving you the option from 'Low' to 'High2'. In both cases, adjust these to your preference. For the rest of the available settings, you can follow our general settings.

HDR Gaming

For HDR gaming, simply turn on 'HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color' for the HDMI port where you intend to connect your video game console or PC and select the 'Game' 'HDR picture Mode' to have the best input lag possible. Some options won't be available to reduce the input lag.

Miscellaneous settings

If you want to activate the Chroma subsampling (4:4:4) on the LG C7, you need to set the 'Input Label' to 'PC' for the HDMI port where your device is connected. This setting is available via the 'Input' menu.

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From the main 'Picture settings' page, there are the 'OLED Panel Settings'. Inside there is the 'Pixel Refresher' function and the 'Screen Shift' settings. 'Pixel Refresher' is the function that will clear any image retention or other screen issues that can happen when the TV is left turn on for a long period of time. This function needs at least one hour to run and will only start once the TV is turned off. This usually takes care of any image retention. The 'Screen Shift' is a feature that will slightly move the screen at regular intervals to prevent image retention. We recommend to turn on this feature.

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White Balance and Color Space Settings

The following are the results of the white balance and colorspace calibration on our unit. They are provided for reference, and should not be copied as the calibration values vary per individual unit even for the same model and same size as the TV we reviewed due to manufacturing tolerances. If you want to try them you will need to enter all values shown, as all of them are active at the same time. If you end up with worse picture quality, simply reset them to the default values.

Questions Found an error?

Let us know what is wrong in this question or in the answer.


Questions & Answers

What are the differences between PC mode and Game mode?
The major difference is that the TV can properly display 4:4:4 color in PC mode. "PC mode" on the C7 is when the input's icon is changed to PC. Any picture mode can be used when in PC mode, so you can be in the Game picture mode while in PC mode. All picture modes have the same low input lag in PC mode (same input lag as non PC Game mode); however some settings are disabled, such as TruMotion, Real Cinema and Noise Reduction.
When setting up HDR on the C7, do you use the same 'White Balance' and 'Color Management' settings in the Cinema picture mode?
Use the 'Warm1' color temperature, for HDR content we found it closer to our white point goal of 6500K (rather than 'Warm2' for SDR). But otherwise don't change any of the other 'White Balance' or 'Color Management' settings. Our calibration was done for SDR content and may not work well for HDR. We don't do a separate calibration for HDR because there is no reference calibration standard for HDR.
I have a C7 hooked up to my PC, when I put it in high dynamic range mode, PC icon, and game mode, it makes the screen really dark. No way to turn it up in TV settings or video card settings. Have 3.51.20 Software.
The C7P's HDR game and PC modes are indeed a bit dim. Unfortunately, there isn't a good way to solve this since LG locks the gamma setting while in HDR. It's unclear whether this is a bug or intentional, but if you want to keep the low input lag of the game mode, enabling dynamic contrast can help enhance the overall brightness.
I am interested in buying this television, but the pre-calibration results are giving me pause. Is it possible to achieve better White Balance dE and Color dE without the use of professional calibration tools? If not, can you please recommend an affordable calibration solution for personal use?
The out of the box calibration of the C7 should be good enough for casual use. Color accuracy isn't a large concern when buying TVs, if you use our recommended settings.

On our unit the white point was the worst aspect of its color accuracy, as the Warm 1 color temperature was a bit too cold but the Warm 2 was a bit too warm. Other units may differ from ours, perhaps Warm 1 or 2 will be more accurate for them. For quick calibration you could use a smartphone as a reference white point, if the smartphone is known to have an accurate white point. iPhones usually do, and you can check your phone's white point on Anandtech.com if they've reviewed it. You can try our white point calibration, but we don't recommend copying our other calibration settings as other units may differ significantly from ours. About cheap colorimeters, the Datacolor Spyder is a good one but it's still about $100 USD.

Hello, thanks for these detailed reviews. I am interested in PC input. Does this accept RGB (full) also, or does it only do YCbCr? Also, on my Pioneer plasma the PC input option locks the display and input both at 60Hz and no movie options are available (i.e. no 72Hz refresh and no 24p input). If I change the input from "PC" to "video" I get the options, and RGB input is still accepted, but it's not displayed at 4:4:4, it's downsampled to 4:2:0 for display. Could you confirm that no such limitations exist on this TV's PC input option? Thanks.
The C7 has no such limitations. RGB full range, 24 Hz, 120 Hz etc. are always accepted. When the input icon is set to PC all the picture modes display proper 4:4:4 color and have the same low input lag. However when playing HDR content the TV acts as though the input icon isn't set to PC, so 4:4:4 color is not properly displayed and only game mode has low input lag.
Do you know if these settings should reflect the same results on the B7 model? My understanding is that it uses the same software and panel but I am wonder if there any any differences that would make it perform differently.
Yes, the settings should apply to the B7 as well.
I was wondering what are the best settings for sporting events, specifically for football and soccer?
Our settings found on this page are applicable to most usages, just adjust the "OLED Light" option to bring the TV up to a brightness level you find suitable.
I was interested in buying the LG C7 but I saw that the E7 came with a Dolby Atmos sound bar. Is this something I can buy separately or would it be better to buy a home theater system to get a better Atmos setup? If so, what do you guys recommend I buy along with the C7 to match or exceed the audio of the E7?
You can probably buy a C7 and a better sound system for the price of the E7. We expect the E7 to have similar picture quality to the C7. Separate Dolby Atmos soundbars exist, such as LG's own SJ9. We don't have any recommendations for sound systems, but a sound system with dedicated speakers is often better than a soundbar.
Would you please explain why PC mode is no longer recommended for HDR gaming?
HDR colors are severely washed out in PC mode. We suspect it's because the TV isn't properly detecting the wide color gamut in the HDR metadata, and a wide color gamut can't be forced because the 'Color Gamut' setting is greyed out in PC mode. We recommend using the normal 'HDR Game' picture mode but turning up the 'Dynamic Contrast' setting if you find the picture too dim.

Update 03/21/2018: Updated the version history for 08/14/2017 to clarify that while in PC mode, HDR 4:4:4 now displays correctly, but the other issues with HDR in PC mode have not been fixed.

How do I set my OLED55B7A to refresh its pixels whenever it's turned off?
After 4 hours of use the TV will automatically refresh the pixels the next time it is turned off.
The recommended settings were defined with the 3.x FW. As this is still a very popular model, are there any plans to revisit the recommended settings in light of the 4.x FW release that includes the Technicolor color modes? Are they any closer to your target than the starting point used in this review?

Yes, we are currently working on our new test bench update, and while doing this, we are also going to update our most popular TV's setting pages, and the C7 is part of this update. The new updated setting page should be live in the coming weeks.

What we found out with the 'Technicolor Expert' mode though, is that it was very close to the 'isf Expert (dark room)' in term of accuracy (almost exactly the same in fact). The main difference are some presets that are different for each style. Here is the preset list of each picture mode.

Picture Settings

Settings 'isf Expert (Dark Room) 'technicolor Expert
OLED Light 60 80
Contrast 85 85
Brightness 50 50
H Sharpness 10 N/A
V Sharpness 10 N/A
Sharpness N/A 10
Color 50 50
Tint 0 0

Expert Controls

Settings 'isf Expert (Dark Room) 'technicolor Expert
Dynamic Contrast Off Off
Super Resolution Off Off
Color Gamut Auto Auto
Edge Enhancer On On
Color Filter Off Off
Gamma BT.1886 BT.1886
Color Temperature Warm2 Warm2

Picture Options

Settings 'isf Expert (Dark Room) 'technicolor Expert
Noise Reduction Off Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off Off
Black Level Low Low
Real Cinema On On
Motion Eye Care Off Off
TruMotion Off Off
The LG OLED55C7P firmware version 04.70.36 was just released on the LG website on 12/12/2017. Does this firmware have the issue in Game Mode where the picture is very dark and dull or does this firmware version fix that?
Unfortunately, this issue has not been properly fixed. It doesn't appear on all types of inputs, as some games might not exhibit this problem. The easiest way to remedy it is to set the "Dynamic contrast" setting to high.
Hello, I'm confused about how the picture settings change when you turn on HDR. I watched some 4K and Blu-ray movies yesterday and the picture settings listed Cinema (user) setting. Today that setting is no longer coming up and the TV automatically changed the setting to APS which was not listed as an available setting yesterday. I have not changed any setting (HDR or otherwise). Why would the TV have changed the setting by itself? How do I get back Cinema user setting? I read the article but I'm still not sure if I understand. Thanks for your answer in advance.
The HDR picture modes are completely separate from the SDR picture modes. 'APS' is your current SDR picture mode, while 'Cinema' is your current HDR picture mode; in some places it'll even say 'HDR Cinema'. As soon as you play HDR content it'll switch to the current HDR picture mode (Cinema), then when you play something non-HDR it'll switch to the SDR picture mode (APS). 'Cinema (user)' just means that the user has modified a setting within 'Cinema'; if you reset the settings it'll go back to saying 'Cinema'. 'APS', 'Expert Bright Room' and 'Expert Dark Room' are only available in SDR. We recommend 'Expert Dark Room' for SDR and 'technicolor Expert' or 'Cinema' for HDR.
Are the “General Settings” for the C7 meant to be used for HDR and Dolby Vision as well? I’m trying to get the ideal settings for HDR content on the Netflix and Amazon Video apps. It seems with the default settings I can see pixelation in dark scenes. It seems like the only recommendation for HDR is to set dynamic contrast to low.
The 'General Settings' are also good for HDR where applicable, except for using the 'Cinema' picture mode, setting 'OLED Light' to maximum for HDR and '50' for Dolby Vision, and setting 'Dynamic Contrast' to 'Low'. To fix the pixelation in dark scenes you can try enabling the noise reduction settings, but it may be an unavoidable part of that specific video.
Hello! First, I’d like to thank all of you at rtings.com for doing what you do. I just purchased the 65” C7. It’s my first OLED. I’m coming from a 65” JS8500. Will I notice a huge difference? All of this HDR stuff confuses me. I also purchased a PlayStation 4 Pro. You say to turn on HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color for the HDMI port I want the console in. I usually just run HDMI to my A/V receiver and plug all of my extras into that. I use an Oppo BD player so I doubt I’ll be using the PS4 Pro for movies. I guess my question is can I set ultra hd to the port running to the receiver and get deep color on my PS, TV and Oppo? Sorry if that sounds confusing. It sounds confusing to me. Just wondering what the best way to set everything up would be to fully utilize the TV to its maximum potential.
Running the PlayStation through the receiver may add extra input lag, which is bad for gaming. It's probably best to connect the PlayStation directly to the TV and have the receiver connected to HDMI 2, so it can receive the TV's audio output through HDMI ARC. To do this, set the TV's 'Sound Out' to 'Audio Out (Optical/HDMI ARC)' and set 'Surround' to 'On'. You can enable 'HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color' for any port that is receiving 4k, though disable it if it causes any source or input issues. Also it would probably be safest to connect the Oppo Blu-ray player straight to the TV as well, as the receiver may not be able to play HDR. And you will definitely notice a difference between the C7 and Samsung JS8500, especially in a dark room.
Hi, I watch all movies/shows through my Apple TV 4k which is upscaling everything to Dolby Vision 60Hz. Where can I find DV calibrating settings/instructions?
Most of the 'General Settings' and 'HDR Settings' also apply to Dolby Vision, except for the following:

'Cinema' is the best DV picture mode,
'Dynamic Contrast' is best set to 'Off' because there is no 'Active HDR' feature in DV (it's not necessary),
'OLED Light' is best left at '50' unless you want the picture to be brighter (unlike in HDR10 where '100' is nearly mandatory).

What's the best way to connect the C7P with a Bose Lifestyle 48 system, it does not have an HDMI.
Optical digital audio out (aka Toslink), your system should have that connector. If you don't have a cable, we recommend this one. The sound quality will be identical to HDMI ARC unless the source's sound output is very high quality like DTS-HD MA.
I know there is no standard by which to measure HDR settings, but do you have any recommended settings for viewing HDR and Dolby Vision content? The colors on the Cinema and Cinema user modes seem a bit off, but all I can find on AVSForum or anywhere else is gaming settings. Any ideas? Thanks!
We recommend the same settings for HDR as for SDR except where noted in the HDR settings section (or where it's not applicable). For the C7 we recommend the 'Cinema' or 'technicolor Expert' picture modes (they're nearly identical) with their default 'Warm2' color temperature, as this gives colors that are closest to what the creator intended. 'Cinema (User)' just means that the 'Cinema' mode has been modified. If the colors look off then you can try using other color temperatures or picture modes; this will give a less accurate look but you may like it better. Also note that in PC mode there is a bug that makes HDR colors washed out, so we don't recommend it.
I just got an incredible deal on the 65” from authorized seller. I will follow your settings above. During the day it will be in a bright room with the sunlight from the left and of course it becomes a dark room at night. I don’t like a dim screen during the day. What settings would you change above during the day? And switch to the above at night? Thanks
The only setting you should change to adjust for ambient light is the "OLED Light" setting. This will adjust the brightness of the screen without altering the accuracy of it making it an easy way to switch quickly.
How many bits is this TV?
10 bit; the C7 can show our gradient test image smoothly without the banding seen on an 8 bit TV.
As is the case with a lot of other people, the new update causes game mode to have a really dull, unplayable picture. I've read on your site and many other sources that switching the HDMI input to "PC" will offer the same input lag in all the other modes. Is this the case, and does it still hold true with the latest firmware (4.70.05)?
Thank you for contacting us. An update recently released (04.70.30) has fixed the dullness which was previously present when using the game mode in HDR. Since this update, we rarely recommend the PC mode for HDR gaming since it produces more issues than the normal game mode.

Update: Unfortunately, it appears that this issue remains present depending on the content shown on-screen. Until LG releases a complete solution, the easiest fix for a dark HDR picture remains to turn on the Dynamic Contrast feature.

Just purchased a C7P. I previously had video inputs (FIOS and 4k bluray) routed through my somewhat older Denon HTS and then connected to TV via HDMI. I rerouted the video inputs directly to the C7P in case the Denon doesn't support the higher def formats. I assume that is the best way to connect the video inputs? Secondly, is it better to connect the TV audio out to the Denon via the "optical digital output" or the "HDMI/ARC" port?
Plugging the video inputs directly into the TV is usually the best way, as older receivers may not support the higher resolutions and features of modern players (and may add input lag for gaming). As for audio, most of the time you'll get the same audio quality over optical as ARC, but over ARC you can use HDMI CEC to power on and off the receiver when the TV powers on and off, control the receiver's volume, etc.
I see that connecting a Bluetooth audio device will make the game mode option greyed out, possibly due to the lag that Bluetooth would introduce. Is there similar concern/consequences when selecting an Xbox One controller on my PC as the default audio output device?
Game mode won't be disabled in that case, but it's possible the audio will lag behind the video. The reason the C7 disables game mode is to raise the input lag so it's closer to its Bluetooth lag. With the C7 in game mode it's possible that the Xbox One controller will have low enough Bluetooth audio lag for you to not notice an audio lag difference; the only way to know is to try it out.
When watching 4k content on the lg oled65c7p Netflix app, how can I tell if the material is HDR encoded and that the LG is “reading” that ad HDR?
The picture modes will be renamed to 'HDR Picure Mode', 'HDR Game', 'HDR Cinema', etc. Netflix also usually has an icon under a show's title that says things like '4k' and 'HDR' if the TV can play it. Sometimes it'll even play in Dolby Vision, we use the show Marco Polo to test for this.
So to be clear, we shouldn't change the PC input icon to the game controller? What about renaming the input label string (eg. renaming "PC" to be "Game" to be more intuitive) ?
Changing the input label has no effect the picture, so feel free to set to it to Game. Adding to the confusion, the PC icon is the only one that is not cosmetic. Setting your other inputs to different icons should also bear no effect on the picture quality.
FYI. If the C7 is connected via Bluetooth to a Soundbar the Game Mode will be greyed-out. Any idea why?
Hi and thanks for contacting us. We are not 100% sure why, but from what we could find online, it may have something to do with Bluetooth audio latency being too much. Since game mode has very low input lag, when using a Bluetooth audio device, the TV would have to delay everything onscreen to match the sound to the image, and this would mean too much input lag in the end.
Hello, does the TV display 4k hdr content correctly from a drive connected through the USB port? Are the settings the same when viewing a movie from a USB drive? Thank you!
The C7 can indeed playback 4k HDR content via USB. Our settings apply here as well, although you might need to input them again since USB drived are considered by the system as distinct inputs.
Naive question, Is the expectation to change these everytime you change content. That would be several times in a day for us. Any recommendations in that scenario ?
There is no need to adjust these settings depending on the content you consume. Unless you have specific preferences, the only setting you should end up adjusting is the "OLED light" level if you ever find the TV too dim or too bright.
So, for calibration purposes you would need to watch the TV in all content types? For example, one would have to adjust settings when watching HDR content, adjust settings again while watching Dolby Vision content, and once again adjust when watching SDR... is my thought process correct?

I have had my c7 55" only for a couple days, but I have to say I am not overly impressed with a few things. Soap opera effect is kind of bad compared to my 8 year old Samsung series 5 plasma and the screen brightness of the LG does not seem great. It seems very dark like the blacks are washing out the picture. In other words, the blacks look very good but all other colors seem dull or muted. And this observation was taken from the settings listed above. I also tried other settings from other major "review websites" and basically the picture looks about the same. Honestly, the best results I have found is to simply leave the APS picture mode on with factory settings except to turn true motion off (I still see soap opera effect though). Any help would be great. Thanks.

The main problem is probably that the 'OLED Light' setting is too low; we set it to '16' in order to hit our 100 cd/m² brightness target for our calibration, but we heavily encourage users increase the 'OLED Light' setting to match the brightness of their room. The 'OLED Light' setting only makes the TV brighter and darker, while the 'Brightness' setting will hurt the blacks if it's raised. If you use our recommended settings with an 'OLED Light' of ~70, 'Brightness' of '50', and 'Trumotion Off', you will get a bright picture without any soap opera effect at all.

Regarding soap opera effect, none should be present in your current configuration as long as 'Trumotion' is 'Off'. You may be mistaking soap opera effect for how motion on an OLED looks different from on a plasma; plasmas flash each color individually, which produces very different motion from any other type of TV.

Regarding different settings for HDR and Dolby Vision, you're correct; SDR, HDR and Dolby Vision all have separate picture modes, so when changing from SDR to HDR the TV will leave the SDR picture mode and enter the HDR picture mode. This means that the settings of SDR and HDR must be set separately, but the TV will remember the SDR settings when you switch back.

Good morrow, First off, you guys are fantastic. I refer everyone I know "TV hunting" to rtings.com. Anyways, When the tv detects an HDR signal "Dolby or HDR" the Oled light autos to 50 and 100, respectively. We all know this. My question is, if you were to alter the values in either format, would it have any impact on the HDR signal, other than the light output? Do you recommend leaving the default Oled light setting? With Gaming, HDR 10 autos to 100, I feel that value increase the risk of image retention. Thank you, you guys are awesome!
Yes, the OLED light setting is better left at its default value in HDR. I wouldn't worry much about it raising the risk of permanent retention, since it doesn't mean that the TV is set to its maximum backlight. With HDR signals, the video content itself has the light output embedded, and it is supposed to be at an average of 100 cd/m2 across the picture. Only sometimes will the TV utilize the full brightness capabilities to provide detail in small highlights.
Is there a way to disable the TV input? For some reason I can't find it. Also, the TV is seeing network shares from my Sonos system as well as my NAS. Is there a way to disable those as well? Ideally I would just like the 4 HDMI inputs to be the only options. Thanks!
Unfortunately, there doesn't appear to be a way to hide these input icons from your inputs menu completely. While you can hide HDMI inputs, the Live TV and local network sources will remain.
So I'm using the C7 for PC gaming. When I use Speccy to look up information, it says the height and width is 3840 x 2160. However, under Current Resolution and Work Resolution it says 1920 x 1080 pixels? I went to the NVIDIA Control Panel and it's set to "4x x 2k, 3840 x 2160 (native)". Under the regular Windows display settings it also says 3840 x 2160. Am I actually running 4k on my TV? If not, is there a way to set it to 4k?
This is most likely due to the scaling in windows giving applications adapted information about the resolution. Your display is likely correctly set to 4k, but it's resolution is being adapted by programs due to the scaling being set to 200% in the windows display settings. You can adjust this in the display settings which can be easily accessed by right-clicking on your desktop background and setting 'Display Settings' -> 'Scale and Layout' to 100%.
You have an update on your review page for 8/14/2017 saying it’s been updated to be able to play HDR games in PC mode now with 4:4:4. But the date on here is in December. So which one is it?
We have corrected the misleading text. WebOS update 3.6 corrected the issue we were having with HDR 4:4:4, but it did not correct the issues with the gradient and wide color gamut. Thank you for bringing this to our attention.
I have just installed the LG OLED77G7P in my family room. I have used the settings you recommend for the C7 and my unit looks pretty good. I have the option to run the Pixel Refresher automatically when the unit is turned off each time. Is this something you recommend? Or should I just run it manually from time to time? I'm hoping to keep this unit for a long time and want to avoid any burn in but I don't want to do something negative to the life of the unit.
After turning the unit off after 4 hours of use the TV will run a short clean mode that should clear any residual image. There is no clear indication if running it manually has any impact on the life of the screen, but LG engineers have told us there should be no long term impact on the life of your screen.
We are not taking any more questions for this product because we no longer have it in our lab.